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Old 01-11-2014, 11:53 AM
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My TBS is 1" not 1/4" and it has vortex spirals inside, I didn't believe it either until I put it on and could tell a difference, and the reason I want headers is because I have a K&n cold air and headers back strait exhaust, pacesetter headers are the exact same as any other brand in every way but price, But I do have another question...what gears should I put in her for speed/mpg? I don't know what's in it now but I have 33" tires and a 5speed standard 4x4 and a 3" lift 4.9L 300 I-6
Old 01-11-2014, 03:19 PM
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Check your axle code on the drivers door sticker and cross reference it. Also check the diff cover and see if there is a metal tag on it with the ratio. The best mpg rear from the factory was the 2.73. It'a not a pulling gear, it's a highway gear. I have the 2.73 and pull allot. It lags compared to the 3.55, but still gets the job done. If you don't pull allot, there absolutely nothing wrong with it.
Old 01-12-2014, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by KDeal94
My TBS is 1" not 1/4" and it has vortex spirals inside, I didn't believe it either until I put it on and could tell a difference, and the reason I want headers is because I have a K&n cold air and headers back strait exhaust, pacesetter headers are the exact same as any other brand in every way but price, But I do have another question...what gears should I put in her for speed/mpg? I don't know what's in it now but I have 33" tires and a 5speed standard 4x4 and a 3" lift 4.9L 300 I-6
" I could tell the difference" isn't exactly a scientific measurement. Anyway just a heads up on the pacesetters ( also sold as Summit Racing brand ). I am running a set of those bad boys. They are a decent quality but the tubes are extremely close to the bolt holes. Other pricier brands have reliefs bent into them. The issue with this is that you must use small head bolts. Studs will not clear. You must modify the mounts for the oil dipstick because it won't clear the tube. At least half the bolts must be turned painstakingly 1/8 turn at a time with an open end wrench. This makes it a pain to get them on. I have tried Allen heads 12 point heads, racheting wrenches, wobbly extensions, just about every tool and bolt design on the market. There's no way around it its just hard. Next they tend to loosen up. I had to switch to dead soft aluminum gaskets so they would seal at all. Locktight burns off. I am now trying heavy duty header lock washers so I'll see how that goes. Finally the collector is a different size than the down pipes so they don't seal well and its a fight to get them to line up. By contrast a customer had me install ( magnaflow I think ) headers on his truck. On and done in about 45 minutes. Studs fit fine so the accessories mounted as stock. No leaks or noise when the truck left and so far no complaints from the customer. So basically the pacesetter work like any other hunk of pipe would but you must decide of you want to spend extra time and hassle or extra money. For me if these lock washers don't work I think I'm upgrading. I'll sell ya mine and a bunch of extra bolts if I do.
Old 01-18-2014, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by unit505
Check your axle code on the drivers door sticker and cross reference it. Also check the diff cover and see if there is a metal tag on it with the ratio. The best mpg rear from the factory was the 2.73. It'a not a pulling gear, it's a highway gear. I have the 2.73 and pull allot. It lags compared to the 3.55, but still gets the job done. If you don't pull allot, there absolutely nothing wrong with it.




I just figured out that I have 3.55 gears, don't ever pull anything, but want some speed on it, a mechanic told me 4.10 would be the best, any ideas?
Old 01-18-2014, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Warlockk
" I could tell the difference" isn't exactly a scientific measurement. Anyway just a heads up on the pacesetters ( also sold as Summit Racing brand ). I am running a set of those bad boys. They are a decent quality but the tubes are extremely close to the bolt holes. Other pricier brands have reliefs bent into them. The issue with this is that you must use small head bolts. Studs will not clear. You must modify the mounts for the oil dipstick because it won't clear the tube. At least half the bolts must be turned painstakingly 1/8 turn at a time with an open end wrench. This makes it a pain to get them on. I have tried Allen heads 12 point heads, racheting wrenches, wobbly extensions, just about every tool and bolt design on the market. There's no way around it its just hard. Next they tend to loosen up. I had to switch to dead soft aluminum gaskets so they would seal at all. Locktight burns off. I am now trying heavy duty header lock washers so I'll see how that goes. Finally the collector is a different size than the down pipes so they don't seal well and its a fight to get them to line up. By contrast a customer had me install ( magnaflow I think ) headers on his truck. On and done in about 45 minutes. Studs fit fine so the accessories mounted as stock. No leaks or noise when the truck left and so far no complaints from the customer. So basically the pacesetter work like any other hunk of pipe would but you must decide of you want to spend extra time and hassle or extra money. For me if these lock washers don't work I think I'm upgrading. I'll sell ya mine and a bunch of extra bolts if I do.


That's what I thought, a pipe is a pipe, I'll look into that thanks. Yes please let me know if you decide to sell them!
Old 01-19-2014, 12:06 AM
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Just looked at the headers I was working on the other day on a mustang. They are BBK. The mustang is set up basically the same as the truck. The tubes are bent pretty much the same the difference is in the clearance around the attaching bolts, the flange cut and the quality if welds.
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