Starter Related Problems
11-15-2016, 03:15 PM
#11
If the new relay matches the old one then you have the correct item.
I assume you have it all wired correctly (there are diagrams on the Internet), the contacts where everything connects are clean and shiny (including the battery terminals) (dirty contacts impede the flow of electricity), and your battery is fully charged (charge it overnight anyway).
To test the new relay put your truck in park and set the parking brake. Take a large screwdriver, a heavy rod, a pipe, etc. and press it against the two large bolts. It will spark but you won't feel it. Just be sure to hold the rod firmly against the bolts. Your starter should engage and you can start the truck this way if the key is in the On/Run position.
If the starter sounds normal and the truck tries to start your relay is bad.
If the starter turns weakly or doesn't move you have a bad starter.
If the starter works fine when shorting the relay contacts (the big bolts) but won't work when you turn the key you have a problem in the ignition switch or it's wiring. Or some other mystery sensor is telling the truck to not start. Being in gear (R, D, 2, 1) is one example of this.
The starter circuit isn't complex and it's all easily accessible except for the ignition switch and wiring to/from the steering column. Problem areas are (in no particular order):
1. Weak, bad battery.
2. Bad starter relay (on the wall near the battery).
3. Bad starter.
4. Miswired circuits.
5. Bad (dirty, rusty, corroded) connectors or wiring. Check your +/positive/red wires and your ground connections.
6. Bad ignition switch.
I assume you have it all wired correctly (there are diagrams on the Internet), the contacts where everything connects are clean and shiny (including the battery terminals) (dirty contacts impede the flow of electricity), and your battery is fully charged (charge it overnight anyway).
To test the new relay put your truck in park and set the parking brake. Take a large screwdriver, a heavy rod, a pipe, etc. and press it against the two large bolts. It will spark but you won't feel it. Just be sure to hold the rod firmly against the bolts. Your starter should engage and you can start the truck this way if the key is in the On/Run position.
If the starter sounds normal and the truck tries to start your relay is bad.
If the starter turns weakly or doesn't move you have a bad starter.
If the starter works fine when shorting the relay contacts (the big bolts) but won't work when you turn the key you have a problem in the ignition switch or it's wiring. Or some other mystery sensor is telling the truck to not start. Being in gear (R, D, 2, 1) is one example of this.
The starter circuit isn't complex and it's all easily accessible except for the ignition switch and wiring to/from the steering column. Problem areas are (in no particular order):
1. Weak, bad battery.
2. Bad starter relay (on the wall near the battery).
3. Bad starter.
4. Miswired circuits.
5. Bad (dirty, rusty, corroded) connectors or wiring. Check your +/positive/red wires and your ground connections.
6. Bad ignition switch.
11-15-2016, 03:26 PM
#12
Senior Member
The two solenoids you might be referring to are the starting solenoid (on the fender well) and the starter solenoid (the cylinder on top of the starter). The starter solenoid actuates the bendix, what shoots your gear out to meet the flywheel/flex plate. If your starter will not fully extend the gear, you could have burned up that solenoid. This could also happen if you held the key in the start position too long.
Like said above, get a new flex plate. Double check your starter at your preferred parts store.....which means looking at the starting gear as well. Relay's are fairly cheap. I used to keep several in the truck with me just in case I thought one was bad.
Like said above, get a new flex plate. Double check your starter at your preferred parts store.....which means looking at the starting gear as well. Relay's are fairly cheap. I used to keep several in the truck with me just in case I thought one was bad.
11-17-2016, 02:14 PM
#13
If the new relay matches the old one then you have the correct item.
I assume you have it all wired correctly (there are diagrams on the Internet), the contacts where everything connects are clean and shiny (including the battery terminals) (dirty contacts impede the flow of electricity), and your battery is fully charged (charge it overnight anyway).
To test the new relay put your truck in park and set the parking brake. Take a large screwdriver, a heavy rod, a pipe, etc. and press it against the two large bolts. It will spark but you won't feel it. Just be sure to hold the rod firmly against the bolts. Your starter should engage and you can start the truck this way if the key is in the On/Run position.
If the starter sounds normal and the truck tries to start your relay is bad.
If the starter turns weakly or doesn't move you have a bad starter.
If the starter works fine when shorting the relay contacts (the big bolts) but won't work when you turn the key you have a problem in the ignition switch or it's wiring. Or some other mystery sensor is telling the truck to not start. Being in gear (R, D, 2, 1) is one example of this.
The starter circuit isn't complex and it's all easily accessible except for the ignition switch and wiring to/from the steering column. Problem areas are (in no particular order):
1. Weak, bad battery.
2. Bad starter relay (on the wall near the battery).
3. Bad starter.
4. Miswired circuits.
5. Bad (dirty, rusty, corroded) connectors or wiring. Check your +/positive/red wires and your ground connections.
6. Bad ignition switch.
I assume you have it all wired correctly (there are diagrams on the Internet), the contacts where everything connects are clean and shiny (including the battery terminals) (dirty contacts impede the flow of electricity), and your battery is fully charged (charge it overnight anyway).
To test the new relay put your truck in park and set the parking brake. Take a large screwdriver, a heavy rod, a pipe, etc. and press it against the two large bolts. It will spark but you won't feel it. Just be sure to hold the rod firmly against the bolts. Your starter should engage and you can start the truck this way if the key is in the On/Run position.
If the starter sounds normal and the truck tries to start your relay is bad.
If the starter turns weakly or doesn't move you have a bad starter.
If the starter works fine when shorting the relay contacts (the big bolts) but won't work when you turn the key you have a problem in the ignition switch or it's wiring. Or some other mystery sensor is telling the truck to not start. Being in gear (R, D, 2, 1) is one example of this.
The starter circuit isn't complex and it's all easily accessible except for the ignition switch and wiring to/from the steering column. Problem areas are (in no particular order):
1. Weak, bad battery.
2. Bad starter relay (on the wall near the battery).
3. Bad starter.
4. Miswired circuits.
5. Bad (dirty, rusty, corroded) connectors or wiring. Check your +/positive/red wires and your ground connections.
6. Bad ignition switch.
When I turn the key, the starter just spins as if it's not engaging the flex plate at all. I'm hoping it's the relay not providing enough juice to the starter and the starter gear isn't rising up to engage the flex plate...I haven't changed any wiring. I had been driving the truck for a couple of weeks with absolutely no issues starting it at all...then without any warning or symptoms, I got in it to leave a store, turned the key and the starter did nothing but spin. I had just started it 20 mins before that to leave work to go to the store and it started fine...20 mins later I go to start it again and all the starter would do is spin..
11-17-2016, 05:05 PM
#14
When I turn the key, the starter just spins as if it's not engaging the flex plate at all. I'm hoping it's the relay not providing enough juice to the starter and the starter gear isn't rising up to engage the flex plate...I haven't changed any wiring. I had been driving the truck for a couple of weeks with absolutely no issues starting it at all...then without any warning or symptoms, I got in it to leave a store, turned the key and the starter did nothing but spin. I had just started it 20 mins before that to leave work to go to the store and it started fine...20 mins later I go to start it again and all the starter would do is spin..
Thanks!
11-17-2016, 05:27 PM
#15
There's a smaller wire that connects to the starter. This wire engages the solenoid to push the rod/gear out where it can engage the flexplate/flywheel. Maybe it needs it's connectors cleaned or tightened?
1. Disconnect the battery and pull the coil wire from the distributor!!
2. Chock the wheels, set the parking brake, and put the transmission in neutral.
3. I think it's a 15/16 socket for the harmonic balancer bolt. Turn the engine clockwise (like you're tightening the bolt).
1. Disconnect the battery and pull the coil wire from the distributor!!
2. Chock the wheels, set the parking brake, and put the transmission in neutral.
3. I think it's a 15/16 socket for the harmonic balancer bolt. Turn the engine clockwise (like you're tightening the bolt).
11-17-2016, 06:08 PM
#16
There's a smaller wire that connects to the starter. This wire engages the solenoid to push the rod/gear out where it can engage the flexplate/flywheel. Maybe it needs it's connectors cleaned or tightened?
1. Disconnect the battery and pull the coil wire from the distributor!!
2. Chock the wheels, set the parking brake, and put the transmission in neutral.
3. I think it's a 15/16 socket for the harmonic balancer bolt. Turn the engine clockwise (like you're tightening the bolt).
1. Disconnect the battery and pull the coil wire from the distributor!!
2. Chock the wheels, set the parking brake, and put the transmission in neutral.
3. I think it's a 15/16 socket for the harmonic balancer bolt. Turn the engine clockwise (like you're tightening the bolt).
11-17-2016, 06:15 PM
#17
11-17-2016, 08:16 PM
#18
Senior Member
Got a picture of which style starter you have?