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mine are being installed now... I had to go up there to show him how to get the old spring seats off...I'm concerned. My shocks will also probably be upside down. this is at a ford dealership
Here's mine after having 275/65-20 (34") tires installed and an alignment done. I installed the Bilsteins and set the front at the 1.75" setting. That somehow resulted in nearly 3 inches of lift in the front...
How did you measure?? That's strange, It shouldn't be possible to get 3 inches of lift if you measure from center of wheel to top of wheel well. If you measured from the ground you've added the new height of the tire to your calculations.
How did you measure?? That's strange, It shouldn't be possible to get 3 inches of lift if you measure from center of wheel to top of wheel well. If you measured from the ground you've added the new height of the tire to your calculations.
I measured from ground to center (top) of wheel well with the stock tires. You can see in the pic how high the front is. I have since added a 2.5" rear block to put a bit of rake back in. Looks good now.
My best guess is that it's because of it being a max tow? The front springs were a serious bear to compress enough to install.
That somehow resulted in nearly 3 inches of lift in the front...
Was that 3" additional height measured when you took that photo? and -
was that photo taken just after the truck hit the ground but hadn't rolled either forward or back? Because the control arms need to arc up and out before you measure, and for that to happen the truck needs to roll at least 12 feet or so.
Forgive me if you already know this and if you think I'm being presumptive.
Was that 3" additional height measured when you took that photo? and -
was that photo taken just after the truck hit the ground but hadn't rolled either forward or back? Because the control arms need to arc up and out before you measure, and for that to happen the truck needs to roll at least 12 feet or so.
Forgive me if you already know this and if you think I'm being presumptive.
No worries at all because I'm shocked by the results as well.
I took measurements at the dealership after driving there from my house (maybe 12 miles?). To be fair, I only measured the front. It went up about 2.75". The rear might have come down a bit due to the see saw effect? No matter how it's measured after everything was said and done and the tires installed, the front was dead level with the rear. That is at only the 1.75" setting. You can see it doesn't look too great in the picture that I took after driving to the dealership and the tires are installed. I triple checked my install and then had the guys at the dealership check as well. Everything is correct. It just lifted my truck a bunch.
As I said, it was a bear to compress the springs. I'm not new to the whole mod game. My large air impact was struggling and the spring compressors were bending and flexing. The front springs in my truck are truly large and hard to compress. I think that's where the height is coming from.
On the bright side, the ride is now pretty firm and 2.5" blocks in the rear (stock ones were 1.25") has it sitting nice. Firm is what I was after so I'm OK with the final results.
That looks good, now. Are you planning different wheels and tires eventually?
As I said, it was a bear to compress the springs. I'm not new to the whole mod game. My large air impact was struggling and the spring compressors were bending and flexing. The front springs in my truck are truly large and hard to compress. I think that's where the height is coming from...
Could be. I hear you on the experience end of things, too. While I do have 5100s on all for corners, and while they are a superb! thing to do for handling and overall vastly improved suspension dynamics, I have also purchased a set of 6112s and 5160s. I had to abort the 6112 install until I get to a better spring compressor. I had been trying to use a worn-out Jack King automobile (car, not truck) floor-standing strut compressor and the rig was pulling the springs down off-axis to the shocks and then releasing them into the insulator/top mount incorrectly and fouling the proper seating position. It was a biotch! and I need to properly assemble these so I can throw them on my truck!
I'm not planning on different wheels/tires for now.
To give you an idea of how much the whole thing lifted my truck, those tires are just over 34" tall (275/65-20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2). To really fill the wheel wells I would need 35's, but I don't want the extra weight and loss of gear ratio.
If I were going to make a change right now, it would be to move the front to the 1.25" setting and go back to stock blocks in the rear. I just don't want to have to take apart the front end again though. It's not exactly my idea of fun.
I look forward to your review of the 6112's once your tools decide to cooperate! I'm breaking the bank so I decided to go with the 5100's. Only owned the truck for a month and already spent too much in total. Suspension and tires are only a part of what I have going on.
10-4. And I hear you on the front end disassembly. This was the second time I went in, and this time it was easier because I disconnected more (like the tie rod from the spindle which I didn't do the first time for fear of upsetting the toe-in setting). I installed the 5100s at the lowest/stock ride height setting. Still have perfect tire wear, but I also rotate every 5000 and stay on top of correct cold inflation pressures.
You will be very happy with the 5100s and that wheel/tire combo. I ask, because bigger tires are, especially when going to an LT 10-ply, are far heavier. This was the main reason I wanted 6112s; to control a 91-lb wheel/tire assembly. I am not running those at the moment but will once the new dampers are on the truck.
Existing A/T Load Range C tires and wheels weigh just 68 lbs each...
My 5100s are two years old and have less than 20,000 miles on them and the feel as good as the day I installed them. They're a great damper.
05-16-2019, 05:45 PM
