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FORScan - software to enable/disable features in your truck

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Old 12-06-2016, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by lucas8888
Has anyone tried adding 4A to their 4x4? I have a 2wd but I wouldn't be surprised if it was some programming and a switch that is different to make this work
I think that's controlled by TCCM and don't see that listed in FORScan as a module we can edit.
Old 12-06-2016, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by volvodoc
I am probably the most computer blind person on this forum. Got Forscan loaded into the laptop which is a h/p with Windows 10. Got the MX for Windows. After many hours invested trying to turn on the Bluetooth, no luck. So it's off too the pc Doctor . Get the call that says it wasn't born with blue tooth. I do have a I pad. Can and how can Forscan be transferred or reloaded too it. I know that I will need another MX link. Thanks
Originally Posted by Livoniabob
You just need to buy a Bluetooth USB adapter... Another $15.00 should get you going..

As to why your PC doctor didn't tell you this I don't know,,, unless he is a politically correct doctor?

You can't use your iPad for this.
Yeah buy this and you should be in business: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZIILLI/

Install the driver that comes with the dongle, reboot laptop, pair MX BT via bluetooth to the laptop, run FORScan.

Last edited by Livnitup; 12-06-2016 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 12-06-2016, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SixShooter14
Just a thought here. Could you take a simple generic plunger-style switch mounted by the tailgate latch and wire it inline with the bed-mounted switch. Then leave the bed switch "ON" all the time?

But I don't know if the computer would reset the bed switch if it sensed that it was always "on"
That's the trouble, it times out. I'd rather do it in software if it's an option. Cleaner. But not a bad idea.
Old 12-06-2016, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Livnitup
I think that's controlled by TCCM and don't see that listed in FORScan as a module we can edit.
Add to the fact that the mechanics are completely different. 4x4 are single speed xfer case, 4A is a two speed xfer case. Different hardware.
Old 12-06-2016, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Canuck_F150
I enabled the sub harness in forescan. It changed the audio output as others noted but the amp doesn't power up.

Did not use the power and ground from harness.

Only using the speaker +\- and the remote wire. All others are heat shrinked off....

any ideas what what the problem could be?
I posted in my audio build that the rear OE connector sucks derrière. Many others confirmed it. Use fuse 23 or the ignition switch as remote turn on.

Enabling the kicker audio settings in forscan makes thing worse.
Old 12-06-2016, 08:14 PM
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Anyone know the values to activate the sub harness? I used basic mode program and can hear the difference but the harness doesn't appear to be working.....
Old 12-06-2016, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasFording
I posted in my audio build that the rear OE connector sucks derrière. Many others confirmed it. Use fuse 23 or the ignition switch as remote turn on.

Enabling the kicker audio settings in forscan makes thing worse.
i was hoping to clean up the install a bit but my primary reason for turning to the harness was the hope that the connector would work better for the remote turn on. I tapped into fuse 23 but I have found the auto start stop is causing me to blow the 15amp fuse on my amp. Seems to only do it when auto st/sp quickly cuts in and out at a light.....

i have kid chairs in the back so it's a pain to pull everything out to change the fuse. Popped 3 fuses since install....

Last edited by Canuck_F150; 12-06-2016 at 08:46 PM.
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Old 12-06-2016, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Canuck_F150
i was hoping to clean up the install a bit but my primary reason for turning to the harness is I was hoping the connector would work better for the remote turn on. I tapped into fuse 23 but I have found if the auto start stop is causing me to blow the 15amp fuse on my amp. Seems to only do it when auto start stop quicks in a out at a light.....

i have kid kid chairs in the back so it's a pain to pull everything out to change the fuse. Popped 3 fuses since install....
if I recall correctly the remote turn on is only 6 volt. So you will probably have to use signal sensing
Old 12-06-2016, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Canuck_F150
i was hoping to clean up the install a bit but my primary reason for turning to the harness was the hope that the connector would work better for the remote turn on. I tapped into fuse 23 but I have found the auto start stop is causing me to blow the 15amp fuse on my amp. Seems to only do it when auto st/sp quickly cuts in and out at a light.....

i have kid chairs in the back so it's a pain to pull everything out to change the fuse. Popped 3 fuses since install....
There is something wired wrong. I have been running my remote on from fuse 23 for a year without an issue. I helped a coworker install audio in his '16 and we're also running his remote from the fuse box and has no issues whatsoever.

You could change your remote to the ignition key. That also works well.
Old 12-06-2016, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasFording
There is something wired wrong. I have been running my remote on from fuse 23 for a year without an issue. I helped a coworker install audio in his '16 and we're also running his remote from the fuse box and has no issues whatsoever.

You could change your remote to the ignition key. That also works well.
do you have auto start/stop? Everything in the previous install should be wired correctly.....I've done lots of installs. Fuse 23 is the same one as inverter? That's what I am tapped into. As long as I don't cause the auto s/s to kick in twice in quick succession everything is fine.... the sub and amp run for hours and hours on long drives; no issue.

Thought I read that the connector works better with auto s/s still not perfect; but better. Also the +\- were said to be a lower crossover which is more appealing than the b pillar tap in.

I read the remote turn turn on is only 6V; my Kenwood amp is older and is likely rated for 12V; but should work lower.

To rule out the remote I put the old remote from fuse 23 onto the amp; it turned on but there was no sound from the woofer (+\- inputs not working either)

stumped really. Was going to try putting some jumpers on the harness 12v +/- to see if that made a difference but didn't bother. They are OUTPUTS from the truck so using or not using them shouldn't matter..... maybe a mouse chewed the harness on the truck side?!?

Last edited by Canuck_F150; 12-06-2016 at 10:23 PM.


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