When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yeah, but these XL’s can be optioned with so much more than they used to be. In my mind, XL used to mean manual windows, locks etc.
Your truck looks great.
Thats the truth! From the factory I had SYNC3, tow package (brake controller, trans cooler, trailer assist) and have added OEM remote start, keypad entry, leather, XLT sun visors, heated mirrors with turns and puddles, 10 way power driver seat, OEM tinted LED tails, F250 tag lights, SE wheels, SE headlights and more. Nothing really broke the bank either.
well now you have me thinking I should do this on my front 5100s before I install them.
does anyone know if the clear would adhere to the finish on the 5100’s or would it be a waste of time?
My rear 5100's started to oxidize after 1 winter, rusted after 2 and I sanded and clearcoated with SpraMaxx 2K, started to rust again, so I pulled them and painted them black rustoleum chassis paint........been good every since
I don't think it would hurt. I wiped mine down with a little denatured alcohol before spraying then to remove any oils.
TSP or acetone.
Do NOT enjoy any of the pleasant acetone fumes. There us no return for any brain cells IT takes. I believe it's one of the operative ingredients in airplane DOPE, thus, the term.
I'd go for black. 😏😆
A problem w clear, it's not generally as rugged as whatever epoxy these were likely painted with, so scratches cause dullness.
Threw on some 2wd 4600s up front (with a 3/8" upper mount spacer, I'm a confused owner about what the heck I want with this thing lol). Took maybe 2 hours using the LCA bolt removal method. I dont know why anyone would advocate for pulling the IWE, upper ball joint etc method. Super easy to reassemble and even get the LCA bolts almost exactly to where they were before. Proper alignment still coming this afternoon.
Threw on some 2wd 4600s up front (with a 3/8" upper mount spacer, I'm a confused owner about what the heck I want with this thing lol). Took maybe 2 hours using the LCA bolt removal method. I dont know why anyone would advocate for pulling the IWE, upper ball joint etc method. Super easy to reassemble and even get the LCA bolts almost exactly to where they were before. Proper alignment still coming this afternoon.
I'm assuming that 3/8" spacer was advertised as 1/2"? I know the MotoFab 1/2" is actually 3/8". How much thread is showing on the 3 top mount bolts? I've thought of using that thickness spacer to get an extra 1/2" on the Fox 2.0's, but was afraid there wouldn't be enough threads. Photos if you can?
Yeah it's advertised as a 1/2" at the wheel (MotoFab spacer bought off Amazon), but the spacer thickness itself was ~3/8" (I've come to feel the motion ratio is about .67 when calculating shock height vs wheel lift/lower distance).
There were barely enough threads to put the top nuts on. I dont have pictures, but the top of the nut and the top of the stud are just about level with each other when installed (stud might be just shy of level, but i did ensure a good amount of threads engaged when installing). Hope that helps.
Yeah it's advertised as a 1/2" at the wheel (MotoFab spacer bought off Amazon), but the spacer thickness itself was ~3/8" (I've come to feel the motion ratio is about .67 when calculating shock height vs wheel lift/lower distance).
There were barely enough threads to put the top nuts on. I dont have pictures, but the top of the nut and the top of the stud are just about level with each other when installed (stud might be just shy of level, but i did ensure a good amount of threads engaged when installing). Hope that helps.
Thanks for that! I'd prefer a couple threads showing, but those nuts are deeper than most I think, so, this saves me some work lowering the Fox from 2" down to 1", then a 1 1/2" spacer. I need to maintain 2 1/2" lift to keep my tires and myself happy.
04-16-2022, 12:17 PM
