nfldfordman

nice job!

DrGriffin

Very nice indeed

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! 1/8" painters tape was the key.

TexasF150

Just got my switches in from OTRATTW. Now I'm debating whether I should face my wiring/electrical fears and attempt the endeavor of mounting the switches and wiring the Rear Bumper switch up to those lights since that's not going to change and leaving the other switches alone until I get my new bumper or if I should wait until I have my new bumper, light bars, and fog lights and then have the shop put the bumper and lights together and mount and wire all the switches to the lights.

vintageman

Looks great Summers. Keep it up, I can't wait to see the finished product.

Tom

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, me either! Will be a small delay as I am going on a family vacation in a couple weekends.

DrGriffin

Started wiring for the brake light on the topper. Kind of a PITA. I used the constant hot wire the previous owner installed for an amp. It was really long so I ran it through the rubber boot on the driver floor board and out to the back of the truck. Connected it to the interior dome light. This way I can turn the dome light on even if the key isn't in the truck.

Now the dilemma....

It started raining on me. I was under the truck, dirty, tired, and now wet. I started working on the truck this morning right after I got home from a 12 hour work night.

I still had to wire up the actual brake light on the topper. I did a little research and found info about a dedicated green wire under a plastic cover attached to the frame under the driver side. I was getting wetter by the minute and decided to give up for today.

So I guess I have a question... Is the green wire actually there and is it really just a break light splice? As in... When brakes are applied and the turn signal is on, it stays solid instead of blinking.

Anyone have experience and know this for sure?

Thanks.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Yep, it's really there and its green. It is dedicated for a brake light.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

I researched this extensively when planning to wire up a ford oval logo light that I ended up selling to Bucko.

Mod (Ret.)

Since our trucks use a single wire for the rear brake/turn signals, I wired the small conversion box that came with that lighted Ford oval. The green and yellow wires from that conversion box are wired to the left/right brake/turn signal light of the rear tail lights, and detect when the brake/turn signal circuit bulb is flashing (turn signal), and keeps the light in the Ford oval from blinking. In checking the factory wiring manual, I did not see any "green" wire for just the brake circuit, unless you are refering to the third brake light (top of cab). I guess you could run a wire from that third brake light out to the rear and use that for your topper brake light (or in my case, for the Ford oval).

It was a pain to snake the wiring harness for that Ford oval inside to the corner of the tailgate. When I removed the factory tailgate Ford emblem, I found that there were 3 "alignment" holes; the lighted Ford oval had its wiring harness in its dead center, and none of the factory alignment pin holes were in the center. No issue there; I drilled one. Snaking the wiring from the center inner tailgate to the lower corner was a real blast; NOT! Used a coat hanger, as there is an inner metal channel that runs horizontal in the tailgate. Got the wiring to the extreem left center, then had to snake it to the bottom left lower corner. Once that was done, I was able to tie it into the trailer wiring. I don't use butt connectors ever when doing wiring connections, especially on outside type wiring. I splice it all in using solder and heat shring. It makes for clean, waterproof connections.