Topic Sponsor
1997 - 2003 Ford F150 General discussion on the Ford 1997 - 2003 F150 truck.

2001 5.4 drilled through coolant passage

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-09-2016, 05:41 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Idrewthe2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Massillon, OH
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default 2001 5.4 drilled through coolant passage

Hi guys, i have a 2001 f150 7700 with a 5.4 w/170k. I while i replacing the drivers side exhaust manifold, i was drilling out the last stud and drilled through a coolant passage. I tried draining the cooling system and putting some rtv on the threads of the stud in hope of sealing it up it didnt hold up the the pressure test. Im stuck between replacing the head or swapping the motor. Ive read that pulling the motor or changing the head gaskets are a hassle. Im also womdering if a 97-99 5.4 would work in my truck? I've read the 00-03 the heads are different. So would it be worth the money to replace the head and the other associated gaskets on my 170k motor or just find a new motor?
Thanks

Last edited by Idrewthe2; 04-09-2016 at 05:44 PM.
Old 04-09-2016, 05:59 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
screamineagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,100
Received 353 Likes on 285 Posts

Default

Man that sucks! Was the stud broken that deep into the head?
Old 04-09-2016, 06:07 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Jbrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 25,732
Received 5,826 Likes on 4,854 Posts

Default

Oh maaannnnn, that sucks. You might try packing the hole with JB weld, it actually should work in this predicament. Use a short bolt, like say a header bolt, - easy on the torque. What have you loose and there's a great chance it'll work. JB weld has been used for coolant line modification in the past (creating tappable ports into manifolds) with great success, so your chances here are real good.
Old 04-09-2016, 06:19 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
screamineagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,100
Received 353 Likes on 285 Posts

Default

I second the JB Weld. Just make sure its clean and dry in there before applying. Good luck!
Old 04-09-2016, 07:39 PM
  #5  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Idrewthe2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Massillon, OH
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Ok, i'll give it a try. Thats more or less what i did with the copper rtv. I drianed the coolant and sprayed brake cleaner in the hole and stuffed a series of napkins in there until i was sure it was clean and dry. Then I put some rtv in the hole and coated the threads of the stud and threaded it in and let it dry for 24hrs. But it started leaking during the 15psi coolant test. Im just wondering if the jb weld will hold up to the continuos heat cycles. Ill give it a try no doubt
Old 04-09-2016, 07:53 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Jbrew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: MI
Posts: 25,732
Received 5,826 Likes on 4,854 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Idrewthe2
Ok, i'll give it a try. Thats more or less what i did with the copper rtv. I drianed the coolant and sprayed brake cleaner in the hole and stuffed a series of napkins in there until i was sure it was clean and dry. Then I put some rtv in the hole and coated the threads of the stud and threaded it in and let it dry for 24hrs. But it started leaking during the 15psi coolant test. Im just wondering if the jb weld will hold up to the continuos heat cycles. Ill give it a try no doubt
Yea that will just plug things up that shouldn't be I expect. Copper is good stuff, but absolutely not for that. Any kind of RTV will get suck into the core most likley. That's where it will stay. JB weld will be there forever as long as you prep right. Coolant or heat cycles wont wear on it. It's all it preparation, if it's prepped correctly it'll work.
Old 04-09-2016, 07:57 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
white89gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 20,667
Received 6,739 Likes on 4,814 Posts

Default

Just throwing this out there. If this happened to me, I'd use a set screw and some PTFE tape. Then a shorter header bolt. An hold hot rodders trick to retain header bolts is PTFE tape to retain header bolts in the head (it works great).
Old 04-09-2016, 08:00 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
white89gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 20,667
Received 6,739 Likes on 4,814 Posts

Default

As I recall, Dodge had some heads that they manufactured like that on purpose. Freakin' exhaust bolts were always touching coolant. Might have even been a Hemi. I've hung around hot rodders for years, and this has always been a Ford and Chevy slam on Dodge.
Old 04-09-2016, 08:07 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
white89gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Utah
Posts: 20,667
Received 6,739 Likes on 4,814 Posts

Default

Curiosity got me. I always remember the "at least we can put headers on your car without draining the radiator" pokes at Dodge owners.

Looks like it's a 340/360 though. Here's what they do to seal it:

Old 04-09-2016, 08:12 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
screamineagle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,100
Received 353 Likes on 285 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by white89gt
As I recall, Dodge had some heads that they manufactured like that on purpose. Freakin' exhaust bolts were always touching coolant. Might have even been a Hemi. I've hung around hot rodders for years, and this has always been a Ford and Chevy slam on Dodge.
Did you ever run across an old rodder named Ray Christian by chance?

Last edited by screamineagle; 04-09-2016 at 08:15 PM.


Quick Reply: 2001 5.4 drilled through coolant passage



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:33 AM.