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welder to removed stud.... takes about 3 minutes and your done.
no need for all that jazz. Also not a fan of stainless studs. Actually got some leaks when using them.
Yea , if so equipped, and if the situation fits....if it didn't snap too deep in the chamber. But yea, a mig works as well....at times just a nut, other times washer then a nut.
Careful, don't fry your PCM's solid state switches lol. I did that last time welding on the header/#1 primary. Blew the PCM coil switches, blew the bottom out of coil #4..was pissed, that should not have happened! That was about 3hundy in parts
Yea , if so equipped, and if the situation fits....if it didn't snap too deep in the chamber. But yea, a mig works as well....at times just a nut, other times washer then a nut.
Careful, don't fry your PCM's solid state switches lol. I did that last time welding on the header/#1 primary. Blew the PCM coil switches, blew the bottom out of coil #4..was pissed, that should not have happened! That was about 3hundy in parts
Ouch. Did you repair the PCM or get a different one?
Ouch. Did you repair the PCM or get a different one?
Surge went through the PCM, -about 80 amps. Left the PCM, blew the coil head apart. That's where it ended.
The solid state switches involve in charge of #4 , 5, 6 and 8. No signal.
Anyway, that much thru the PCM, - didn't even want to mess with it.
Found out a few months ago it fried the auto starter as well. Made sense since that was directly wired to coil #8...(rpm learn/monitor). That was the extent, everything else is good.
On a good note, - I think it dried my Gem out..no rice needed.
Hahaahhaa... maybe I'll try the welder next rain storm.
Might be safer packing the back of the fuse block in Uncle Bens... Just a thought.
Even if you re-seal with window weld there's another bad area where the metal over laps just ahead of the windshield and just under the top of the fender. My 98 leaked on the drivers side from there. It had a sealer on it originally that lifted over time. The sealer was bad on both side of the cab with my truck. I couldn't get the passenger side to leak at location BUT, the drivers side leak from there.
To explain further, -It's the cab overlaps 3 or 4" from the windshield. They seemed to be done satisfactory from the manufacturer (not blaming Ford). Spot welded in place, Ford Butyl between spots then sealer. Like you would do a rocker if you didn't want it to rust again lol. It was just years of wear, -water, foreign matter eventually will win. Sealer lifts, moisture pockets in the voids, corrosion begins.
I guess IF they would have welded or fused the overlaps it may not occur. Not sure, there's other variables that come into play going that route I expect.
Anyway, thought I'd let you know if you didn't already.
I've heard about an overlap that leaks before, however I couldn't see anything. I didn't realize it was under the damn fender. Did you need to take your fender off to do your repair? I'll slap roofing tar all over this SOB if I need to, lol (believe me, that thought has entered the mind). The water does seem to be coming from the drivers side now. Before the windshield install I actually watched it leak on the passenger side on the top corner. Doesn't seem to be anymore though.
Still LOL on the Uncle Ben's comment. You crack me up!
04-13-2016, 06:12 PM
