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03 f150 4.6 romeo timing question

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Old 06-03-2016, 09:27 AM
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Jbrew, thanks for the advice. I have already had the wiring harness off the truck and been over the entire thing. I didn't notice any chaffing on the old o2 sensor wiring but I will check the wiring harness on the truck again today and clean the ground as soon as I get a chance.
White89gt, yes I do believe the white smoke to be coolant. Mostly because I'm losing coolant, and i can't find an external leak and the exhaust smells really sweet. Thats why i was considering a blown head gasket causing coolant loss into the combustion chamber and causing the rich code for bank 2 because the truck will stumble and missfire sometimes. Mostly right upon startup and most of the time that's when I notice the smoke. Sometimes it's a little smoke sometimes it's a cloud. But to revert back to your suggestion about coolant fouling the sensor, bank 2 is reading rich and the bank 1 sensor keeps dying so I don't know man. Like I said I pressurized the coolant system and no leak. Held 17 psi for 30 mins straight without dropping pressure. Also did the sniff test for combustion gas in the coolant in the degas bottle and negative results. The only other place I know coolant to leak from is the heater core but I haven't noticed any moisture on the floor of the cab but it still could be the source of the leak.

Last edited by ericarrendale; 06-03-2016 at 09:39 AM.
Old 06-03-2016, 10:29 AM
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I've seen coolant leaks that required heat, as well as pressure to be evident. One time an intake leak, and the other a head gasket.

That said though, do you let it idle for a few minutes before you shut it off? The reason I ask is, from a cold start, my Expedition with a Romeo will give off a puff when I start it if I've let it idle for 10-15 minutes before shutting it off. I read somewhere, maybe even on this fine forum, that this is a pretty common thing - and it's fairly normal.

Just something to think of.
Old 06-03-2016, 11:12 AM
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Jeezz, I missed that it was leaking coolant. I went back and read EVERYTHING this time.

Alright so your not absolutely sure where the coolant is going, just that it's disappearing. The mechanic thinks it's timing. Since you can't find the leak, you want to confirm the mechs suspicions correct?

I don't know how you would do that... a timing light maybe.

Not without removing the cover. What did the mechanic say or haven't you asked yet ?

As far as losing coolant, have you shinned a light down into the block cavity behind the alternator ? That's where they leak. Also, could be a freeze plug, but that's not common.
Old 06-03-2016, 11:31 AM
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The only thing I can think of that might be able to read your timing would be one of the Rotunda scanners the dealer uses.
Old 06-03-2016, 11:35 AM
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Jbrew, I have looked underneath the intake for moisture in the valley between the heads. Bone dry. I could go back to auto zone and re-rent the coolant system pressure tester and apply pressure to the system while it's hot. I didnt do that the last time I tested it, but I did hook it up to the degas bottle and let the motor run a while to see if the coolant system would build up to much pressure due to a blown head gasket presurrizing the system. Since that was my suspicion at the time. The reason the mechanic I went to says timing, is because when he looked at the LTFTRM on both banks, one bank was at -20% and the other was -23%, confirming there is actually a rich condition. He says being that both banks are so rich it's a timing issue. However, since I have had this truck, I found one of the timing chains was very loose. Tore it all down and found one of the guides was broken. (I had been getting the p0175 rich condition on bank 2 prior to me finding this) I marked everything where it was at, replaced the chains, guides, tensioners, new front cover gaskets and put it all back together. It ran fine and I thought this had to be the course of my rich condition. But the code came back in 2 or 3 days. Now I'm thinking maybe it jumped time on bank 2 before i noticed the slack but the chain on bank 2 was tight and right when I tore it down. It was the guide on bank 1 that had broken.

I'm trying to explain this stuff so it makes sense to you while I'm babysitting my 3 crazy *** kids so please bare with me if I'm confusing you
Old 06-03-2016, 11:39 AM
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ericarrendale,


http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...ml#post3919175


Take this info down, I will delete some of it later.

Last edited by Jbrew; 06-03-2016 at 01:07 PM.
Old 06-03-2016, 11:41 AM
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I honestly don't feel that it's a timing issue. I just wanted to see if I could confirm what this mechanic is telling me without going through all that work again because I'm a drill instructor in the military and dont have a lot of free time to do something that extensive. Also I have been getting the code since before I did the timing work.
Old 06-03-2016, 11:45 AM
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Did you unplug the battery before changing the timing chain?

Last edited by w0lvez; 06-03-2016 at 11:53 AM.
Old 06-03-2016, 11:46 AM
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LOL, I have that procedure saved in Google Docs. I copied and pasted it. I see whereas your name is a couple posts down.... you're like a movie star in the F150 world Brewster.
Old 06-03-2016, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by white89gt
LOL, I have that procedure saved in Google Docs. I copied and pasted it. I see whereas your name is a couple posts down.... you're like a movie star in the F150 world Brewster.
Lol, - movie star, hey aren't those guys suppose to be rich ?



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